Our Building

The Hungerford Hill Winery in Broke Road, Pokolbin stands as a sentinel at the entrance to the Pokolbin district in the Hunter Valley. It is a powerful landmark for visitors to the area, situated at the beginning of the road which leads into the gently undulating valley and eventually to the more rugged Upper Hunter.

Its near neighbours present a diverse architectural palette. The prestigious Lakes Folly, on the western boundary, still operates from a romantically gabled shed. Opposite, Peterson's Champagne House is a cluster of neo colonial brick cottages. A little further along Alan Jack + Cottier's 1971 award winning building at the Rothbury Estate has a proprietorial air, perched high on the hill at the end of a grand entrance drive. Across the road from Rothbury is Len Evans' more recent venture, the Tower Estate Winery, with its intriguing ziggurat shaped entrance.

The Hungerford Hill winery introduces a memorable architectural form into this melange. Located on the south side of the road, the land slopes down into a series of marshy lakes surrounded by casuarina trees. The Brokenback ranges preside over the background to the west. Architect Walter Barda has orchestrated the building rooflines to respond to the shape of the mountain range and in a sense 'grow out' of the site. The landscape has been carved and shaped to allow for both partial burial of the building, and its elevation above road level.

The result is an imposing, dramatic presence. 'We wanted to capture the natural grandeur of the site in the buildings' says Barda. The winery facility, a circular structure with industrial references, forms a mound-like shape. Inside, tasting and delicatessen counters line the curved walls. Above, a roof 'lid' is permanently propped open by steel plates, letting in the winter sun, and providing a formal gesture to welcome passing traffic.

West of the circular drum and linked to it is a restaurant and function centre. It is interesting that in Barda's early sketches a frill-necked lizard appears on the page below the roofline sketch. Its form, with its head uplifted to the amphitheatre of lake and range, echoes the roofline. The roof seems to erupt literally from the grounded mound, as if leaping from it. Underneath, the massive glass wall faces west across the lake and ranges, placing diners in a volume of heroic scale. 'The design has a definite processional quality' says Barda, 'incorporating changes of level from approach, arrival, parking, ramped walkway, culminating in the great roof over the restaurant, framing the dramatic mountain view.'

External colours have been selected to match those of the surrounding earth. Sombre charcoals are reminiscent of the coal seams mined in the area. The bold organic sculpture and rugged textures of the exterior contrast with the warm, detailed interiors. The vast scale of the volumes is made human with the use of Oregon timber, woven textures and solid furnishings. Wine production takes place in the vaults below the restaurant, allowing cool air to be filtered through the restaurant floor from the subterranean chambers.

On arrival, visitors drive along a curving road through the vineyard to the rear of the winery. The contrast of the prim, orderly vineyard landscape with the mysterious, cathonic presence of the buildings is striking. 'We wanted to create a sense of ceremony upon arrival,' says Barda, 'it heightens the wine tasting experience.'